Cycle through the villages.
Marta our Airbnb host suggested we go through the villages to reach our next destination, Valens. She suggested we pass through the villages of Waltensburg, Rueun over the Woodbridge to Ilanz, and finally Versam. The villages are so beautiful, pretty, and clean but we had to traverse through the gravel roads. The route was excellent and picturesque. Along the route of 13 KM long, we noticed Switzerland’s Grand Canyon, a product of a cataclysmic geological event that took place 10,000 years ago.
The Ruiaulta Canyon formed as a result of the Films rock side, 10,000 years ago, which brought 12 million cubic meters of limestone down into the Rhine Valley from mountains lining its northern side. This blocked the vorderrhein, causing a lake to develop around what is now Ilanz. Over time, pressure from this water forced a way through the blockage and a gorge was created as the river cut down through the debris. Lined by clifs and fantastic rock formations several hundred meters high, the canyon is only accessible by foot, river or train with Rhaetische Bahn railway running through the gorge. The river is popular for white-water rafting.
We traversed through the gravel road, forest, and slightly mountainous towards Waltensburg village. It was a tough & bumpy ride given the bicycles were not suited for gravel road rides. You must appreciate that the three mountain villages of Brigels, Waltensburg, and Andiast form a compact and family-friendly holiday region in the Surselva’s Anterior Rhine Valley (Vorderrhein) area.
From Waltensburg town, we re-entered the forest and dropped down to the riverbank, passing an old covered wooden bridge that leads across the Rhine to Rueun and continued south of the river, mostly in trees, to road repair depot where asphalt surface begins. Then we passed under the railway and road bridges continued along the riverbank and finally reached Ilanz.
Waltenburg Bridge
Ilanz – the first city on the Rhine – is a lively town with a picturesque and historic town centre. It is the perfect starting point for nature and cultural experiences.
From Illanz, we crossed the river Glenner, joined the cycle track, and ascended all the way to reach Castrich where the cycle track ends. Then we descended about 1.5 km followed by a steady ascent to Valendas and another 2km of steady ascend to Carrera passing Brun to reach the quarry. Then we descended gently to the village of Versam, perched on the side of the gorge high above river Rabiusa.
The Uphill & Down Hill
From Versam, the passage was mainly downhill and with a slight uphill passing through the towns of Bonaduz and Tamins. From Tamins we headed to Chur which was largely flat. The passage to Chur was the most difficult as we had to ascend and descend a couple of times and we were really exhausted. We reached Chur (pronounced as “kur”), the capital of Graubünden is the gateway to the alpine passes and the oldest town in Switzerland and has a settlement history of over 5,000 years. The historic Old Town is very much car-free. This is where the bishop’s palace is located today. It stems from «Curia», which was what the city was called during Roman times when the first bishop’s seat was established south of the Alps. There is the 800-year-old cathedral with its late Gothic altar.
St. Martin's Church, Chur
It was a long journey of up & downhills
We then headed towards Bad Ragaz using an alternative route, shorter by 5km, bypasses Heidland Villages, and arrived about 9 pm. It was also getting late and dark and the ride was mainly through gravel road and close to the Rhine river high on the banks. Bad Ragaz in the St. Gallen Rhine Valley at the foot of the Pizol has a long tradition as a health spa. (We did not find time to do a health spa but our stay at Valens was exceptional.) Since it was very late, we managed to get on the last bus going up to the mountains of Valens to our lovely BNB home and exceptionally good host. Our host was so kind and waited for us to come. Although very tired, we enjoyed the ride and the stay very much. The cottage was very cosy.